The Jessner Peel At Skin Deep in the Rockies

What is the Jessner Peel? The Jessner is a medium depth chemical peel. A way to exfoliate the skin using a specific blend of acids in 14% Salicylic, 14% Lactic, and 14% Resorcinol. Let’s take a look at how the key ingredients work.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is oil soluble, which enables this ingredient to easily enter the pores after application. After entering the pores, salicylic acid exfoliates the pore lining, which loosens clogged dirt and oil and helps to wash these impurities away. Salicylic acid has the ability to dissolve keratin, the protein that acts as the “glue” holding the dead skin cells together in the stratum corneum. This is effective because dead skin cells can build up on the surface of your skin, leaving it looking dull and clogging pores. Salicylic acid has antiviral, antibacterial and antiseptic properties so it is fantastic for acne skin types as well as its anti-aging benefits.

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that has the ability to exfoliate the skin, stimulate the skin’s natural regeneration process, and help the skin to retain moisture and aid in {TEWL transepidermal water Loss.} Lactic acid is also a natural reoccurring acid in the body that lubricates the joints. When lactic acid is used in high concentrations, such as with a chemical peel, it has the ability to lighten the skin and correct skin discoloration (hyperpigmentation). Specifically, lactic acid has been shown to directly inhibit tyrosinase activity. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin, the pigment that gives skin color and also contributes to the formation of undesirable dark spots. Therefore, by inhibiting tyrosinase, lactic acid may be able to reduce abnormal pigmentation associated with aging and exposure to UV and blue light.

Resorcinol is a derivative of phenol and has been used as a peeling agent for almost 150 years. This ingredient works by disrupting the hydrogen bonds in keratin aka (protein), so it is primarily used for addressing pigmentation. Resorcinol has historically been used in the Jessner formula thanks to its natural antiseptic properties. In recent years, resorcinol has been taken out of some Jessner’s solution due to possible health risks (myxedema, thyroid dysfunction and cardiac arrhythmia). I use both with and without resorcinol depending upon the client and their health status. Resorcinol does lighten the hyperpigmentation more quickly on a professional note.

What are the benefits of a Jessner Peel?

As explained above, chemical peels work by destroying the outer damaged layers of skin in order to reveal the healthier skin underneath. This process can lead to numerous skin benefits. Jessner Peel benefits include the following:

• Smooths out fine lines and wrinkles

• Reduces the appearance of acne scarring and pitted skin

• Reduces the appearance of large pores

• Improve the overall complexion of the face

• Lightens areas of skin discoloration

• Reduces existing acne

• Restores skin to a more healthy, youthful glow

• Increased collagen and elastin

Are there any side effects after a Jessner Peel?

· Jessner Peel side effects are the same as any medium-depth chemical peel, which include skin redness, swelling, peeling, and mild discomfort. If the pre- and post-peel instructions are followed, there should be no serious side effects or complications after the Jessner Peel. However, if too many layers of solution are applied and the peeling solution penetrates too deep in the skin, you could experience skin blanching (the skin turns white). This is why it’s imperative to only have a licensed professional apply the Jessner Peel and no DIY's ;-)

· Avoiding exposure to UV light after the Jessner Peel is also very important to avoid side effects. As you have learned, chemical peels remove the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum. When this protective layer is removed, the skin underneath is more susceptible to sun damage since the sun’s UVA and UVB rays can more easily penetrate deep into the skin. Thus, sun exposure after a chemical peel can lead to serious sunburn and even additional hyperpigmentation thus defeating the purpose of this peel. It is imperative to wear an spf of 30 or higher and a hat is suggested even for commuting to and from your appointment.

Who should avoid the Jessner Peel?

There are several conditions that are considered to be contraindications for anyone considering a Jessner Peel, which include the following and will be considered during your consultation:

• Use of Accutane 6 months prior to the Jessner Peel, during the treatment, and 6 months post peel

• Allergy to aspirin, milk, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and/or resorcinol

• Active cold sores, sunburn, or severe asthma

• Lupus

• Eczema

• Rosacea

• Psoriasis

• Pregnancy

• Chronic skin disorders and dermatitis conditions